domingo, 1 de agosto de 2010

MI OBSCENO PARIS LITERARIO

Por Eduardo García Aguilar
Trabajo en la Plaza de la Bolsa, a pocos metros de donde vivió Simón Bolívar en dos ocasiones en 1804 y 1806, en tiempos de Napoleón. Por ahí, a dos cuadras, Stendhal escribió Rojo y Negro y sufrió un desmayo que lo dejó tirado en la calle. Esa era la zona financiera y el sector de la poderosa prensa coludida con la plutocracia descrita por Balzac, Zola y Maupassant.
A dos cuadras mataron al socialista Jean Jaurès y al lado publicó Emile Zola su famoso Yo acuso en protesta por la condena al militar judío Dreyfus en el diario La Aurora. Uno puede caminar ahora por los mismos lugares por los que ellos paseaban y la diferencia es poca. Por esta zona, orilla derecha del Sena, están los famosos pasajes del siglo XIX, sobre los que escribió el autor judío-alemán Walter Benjamin. Los grandes multicentros de tiendas y cafés lujosos de la época eran pasajes que cruzaban de una calle a otra y en el interior había cafés, almacenes, sitios de encuentro, cortesanas, y eso está detallado en la obra de todos los escritores del XIX.
Es delicioso caminar por París y poder leer esas obras y encontrar que las mismas calles están como si no hubiera pasado el tiempo. Encontrarse con la placa de Molière, que vivió y murió aquí cerca, o con las dedicadas a César Vallejo y al gran viajero Bougainville es lo más natural del mundo. Es una ciudad literaria y lo literario es aquí hivernal. En París la obra literaria de todos los autores ha estado marcada por el invierno, el hielo, la tuberculosis, la mugre de Los Miserables de Victor Hugo o Jules Vallès. Gérard de Nerval , el autor de “Aurelia” y otros decadentes como Maupassant fueron prácticamente aniquilados por el invierno, el frío y la tuberculosis, la sífilis y la depresión neurasténica reinante a fines del siglo XIX y comienzos del XX. En las habitaciones y oficinas la calefacción era precaria en ese entonces, mientras hoy se vive en casas con clima equilibrado y en los cafés se instalan aparatos que posibilitan estar afuera, sentado, tomando vino o cerveza sin tener frío, pero los autores del XIX y otras épocas sí sufrían de una forma terrible el invierno y de ello morían.
Me agrada andar por las calles de Saint Germain-des-Prés, epicentro de la vida literaria donde estuvieron presentes Joyce, Beckett, Camus, Hemingway, Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir y Roland Barthes y sobre todo los escritores latinoamericanos. En los años 20 y 30 París era el centro de la literatura latinoamericana, con autores tan importantes como los peruanos César Vallejo y los hermanos García Calderón, el guatemalteco Miguel Angel Asturias y el mexicano Alfonso Reyes. Hay placas que ellos colocaban con ceremonias para celebrar a los latinoamericanos que los antecedieron como el gran nicaraguense Rubén Dario, el colombiano Vargas Vila y el guatemalteco Enrique Gómez Carrillo, que vivieron en París en la transición del siglo XIX al XX, en tiempos del viejo Paul Verlaine.
París hoy es mucho más cosmopolita que antes. Hay barrios paquistaníes, indios, chinos, rusos, árabes, africanos, judíos, de modo que también me encanta caminar por el mundo popular que nos transporta hacia el Extremo Oriente, Oriente Medio, Africa y la Europa Oriental como si uno hubiera tomado un avión hacia esos lugares. Hacia el norte de la ciudad, cerca de las estaciones ferroviarias del Norte y del Este, por Belleville o Montmartre, donde viven árabes, tailandeses, sirlankeses, japoneses, judíos, africanos, la ciudad es una urbe semiproletaria donde se hablan todas las lenguas y se lucen las más extrañas prendas, lo que contrasta con los barrios de la perfumada burguesía mundial, situados por Madeleine, Place Vendôme, Trocadero, Passy, Monceau, Saint-Cloud, Boulogne y otros sectores.
Hay cuatro épocas fundamentales de la literatura latinoamericana parisina. Primero el modernismo con Ruben Darío, Gómez Carrillo, José María Vargas Vila y otros latinoamericanos que vivieron intesamente cuando estaban vivos Verlaine y Mallarmé. Luego viene la generación de entreguerras en los años 20 y 30, cuando todos los escritores latinoamericanos venían a estudiar como el joven Asturias o a hacer diplomacia como Alfonso Reyes. Más tarde viene el “boom” latinoamericano en el que estuvieron presentes García Márquez, Julio Cortázar, Alejo Carpentier, Severo Sarduy, Julio Ramón Ribeyro, Alfredo Bryce Echenique, Mario Vargas Llosa, y como diplomáticos y vedettes activas Octavio Paz y Carlos Fuentes. Y en la actualidad vive una vasta generación de autores latinoamericanos de todas las nacionalidades, pero principalmente peruanos, como los hermanos Rosas Ribeyro, Mario Wong, Edgar Montiel, Alejandro Calderón, Jorge Nájar y los argentinos Luisa Futoransky y Arnaldo Calveyra.
Los escritores latinoamericanos malditos no vivieron tan mal como dice la leyenda. César Vallejo no vivió tan triste y pobre como se cuenta bajo el frío y la lluvia de París "con aguacero". Su tumba está en el cementerio de Montparnasse, rumbo de fiesta en tiempos de entreguerras. Todos vivieron momentos muy felices porque había vino y fiesta y eso en todos los casos, desde la generación de Ruben Darío, a la de Asturias, y a la de García Márquez, que se queja de su etapa parisina, pero se la pasaba de rumba tocando y cantando en los bares de Odeon al lado del artista venezolano Soto.
Los que vivimos ahora en esta primera década del siglo XXI somos los escritores mas felices de todas las generaciones, a salvo de la tuberculosis y la sífilis y la soledad. Vivimos en una jaula de oro y con la alegría de que la literatura latinoamericana ha pasado de moda. Ya no somos los exitosos personajes folclóricos de antes, sino que entramos a la era cosmopolita donde cada esquina del mundo es el mundo mismo y Paris un obsceno lugar literario cargado de fantasmas del pasado que chillan desde sus frías mazmorras de gloria.

25 comentarios:

Sandro Cohen dijo...

¡Ay, Eduardo! ¡Cómo me llenas de nostalgia! Me encantó leer tu artículo. Por poco dejo todo, corro y compro mi boleto para París, la ciudad más hermosa del mundo en la cual se pueda vivir. (En Venecia, aún más hermosa, no se puede vivir, o sería como vivir en un museo viviente: demasiado para mí. Venecia, hay que tomarla a cucharadas, como la luna de Sabines). Te mando un gran abrazo lleno de cariño, recuerdos y solidaridad desde el Centro Histórico de la Ciudad de México (donde también vivió Alfonso Reyes; no sólo en París, ¿eh?).

Isaías Peña Gutiérrez dijo...

Eduardo,
qué bien tu artículo y se nota que no envejeces. Abrazos, Isaías

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